|Lets talk about medications for
the actual Koi themselves before we attempt to go on to
medications for the actual water that they have to live in ..
but we do have more information on this subject and water care
within this section and also in our 'Water and Pond Care'
Ironically chemicals added to a pond intended to bring about
a cure for health problems are very invasive to fish in the
first place, as chemicals increase stress levels in fish.
Generally most common pond treatments reduce dissolved oxygen in
water. Some chemicals can radically reduce the level of
protective mucous coating on fish. Organic die back can increase
altering pH values etc. when Koi are stressed through changes in
water quality an increase in Ammonia output can result. All
chemicals do have a detrimental effect to the beneficial strains
of bacteria we need in the pond & filter. The level of
damage done to the enclosed eco system is hard to quantify
precisely for any given chemical. Anti-bacterial treatments are
exactly that, for example they lower bacteria levels but there
is no discrimination, all bacteria good and bad will be
effected. After any chemical is added to the pond, water
quality, needs to recover from this kind of disturbance as in
most cases pollutant levels can increase.
After any pond wide treatment plan additional water quality
monitoring is the best starting point. Re-boosting the filter
and pond with nitrifying bacteria is very beneficial. Stopping
Feeding while medicating will at least reduce some of the
pollutants that the "strained" filter system has to
deal with. Let the results from your water testing be your guide
to resuming normal feeding levels.
It is critical when adding any medication that the volume of
your pond to be treated is known... DO NOT GUESS ... if you
don't know find out... as adding too much chemical can be fatal
conversely, too little can be ineffective. Accurate measuring of
doseage rates again is just as important. Always pre-mix the
measured quantity into a large bucket of pond water and add a
quarter of the mix to the pond initially and then, perhaps after
15 or 20 minutes, you can add some more - this allows the fish
to become use to the medication gradually rather than causing
them too much stress with a single dose ... Always ensure that
you have a good Air Supply going into your pond as adding
chemicals can severally reduce the oxygen levels in your pond...
try to bear in mind also that the oxygen levels at night time
are always lower and therefore unless it is an emergency .. do
not add chemicals during the evening ...
Choosing the correct chemical is probably the hardest part of
treating any pond ! So if you do see the odd fish 'flicking' or
'flashing' in the early morning or during the early part of the
evening - does not mean that there is anything wrong as it could
be the lower oxygen levels that are causing the fish to behave
in this manner .. but of course monitor the situation and don't
go rushing to the medical chest grabbing this chemical and that
chemical to dose your pond ... you may cause far more harm
than doing any good ..
Always test your water before adding any chemicals - and if
you suspect parasites then those parasites have to be identified
using a good quality microscope which is a very important part
of any Medical Chest and should certainly be placed on the
shopping list as a priority if you don't already have one ..
Initial Equipment you will
need to use ...
First of all you are going to need a suitable bowl in which
to place the Koi where you can examine the problem more closely
and decide what is the best form of action to take ... and there
are many on the market ranging from the traditional 'Baby Bath'
that has been discarded after the baby has grown up ... or of
course as you would expect there are many various shapes and
sizes available from most good Koi Outlets ....
Pick the bowls) that you think are going to be the most
useful to you ... it is no good just going out and buying the
biggest, or smallest, you can. The large bowls are good for 'Big
Koi' or if viewing them a few smaller Koi and the small ones are
just for those that will comfortably lay in the bowl.
When you have chosen the right bowls for your own
requirements .. then of course they can be used for many
purposes - but one of the most important ones is for inspection
and possibly Anaesthetising the Koi that you wish to treat.
Until you feel totally comfortable about handling you Koi
then I suggest that you do at all times, and make it a rule, to
use a 'Transfer Net- - or Koi Sock, as they have been called by
some - we have a good selection of these Transfer Nets - Tubes -
Socks etc on our web site .. if you do not already have one then
please for goodness sake put one on your shopping list ... it
may save untold damage to a prized koi if you were to drop it -
and that even in the most experienced hands is always going to
be a possibility .. don't take the chance.
In this section we will initially deal with 'Bowls' -
'Floating Baskets' - Floating Retainer Nets' - 'Treatment Mats'
- 'Weighing Scales' and 'Salt Testers' and then we will move
onto other related matters later such as the Actual Medications
and treatments etc
Be Sure to see the New Non Chemical Treatments - Parazoryne
and Sabbactisun - these products are totally New and truly