BubbleBead filters need to be used with an appropriate pump with some form of strainer to remove coarse particles over 2mm. A UV unit will assist in the control green water algae.

All new filters take time to mature.
The BubbleBead will start to remove solids mechanically as soon as it is started. Biological filtration takes longer to establish, especially in colder water. In existing systems, it is best to run any old filter alongside your new filter for at least eight to ten weeks. In new systems use maturing agents and build stocks gradually.

On 'TwinValve' models:
- If you are operating the filter manually - turn off the pump switch, and turn it back on again a few minutes later (after the bubblewash has taken place).
- If you use a timer to control this, you do not even have to be present for cleaning to take place.

On Models 1,2 & 4:
- Turn off the pump, open one valve. Wait a few minutes for the bubblewash to take place. Close the valve and turn the pump back on.

On 'TwinValve' models:
- We recommend that the backwash is monitored for correct operation at least once every few weeks - just listen to the filter as it backwashes, and check that dirty water flows freely to waste. The shuttle-valve should be examined about once a month and cleaned if necessary - this might take five minutes and can be done immediately following a backwash. The other valves should also be checked, but at less frequent intervals.

On Models 1.2 & 4:
- The additional drain should be flushed for a few seconds about once a month during the summer.

For all models, remember that your main pump strainer will need checked periodically, and the pond topped-up from time to time if an auto top-up is not fitted.

It is essential to find out what your fish stocking and feeding levels will be as BubbleBeads are not merely sized by the pond gallonage. (see our Sizing Table)
e.g. if your pond was 2,400 gallons the following alternatives might apply:

A) A 2,400 gallon pond with a few golden orfe; maximum feeding rate in mid-summer of 60 grams of food in any one day.
- Look at the table under 'Max.Feed Rate per day'. This falls within the 230 gram limit for the BBF-1.
- The pond is lightly stocked so look in the 'Light Stock' column for Maximum Pond Volume. The gallonage falls within the 2,400 gallon limit for the BBF-1.

So in case A) a BBF-1 would cope. Run with a pump giving 800 gph (resulting in a turnover of once every three hours in this lightly stocked pond) and a 30 watt UV unit.

B) A 2,400 gallon pond with a reasonable number of koi; the maximum feed rate in mid-summer is 200 grams of food in any one day.
- Look at the table under 'Max.Feed Rate per day'. This falls within the 230 gram limit for the BBF-1, however....
- The pond is more than lightly stocked, so look in the 'Standard Stock' column for Maximum Pond Volume. The gallonage of 2,400 is above the 1,600 gallon limit for the BBF-1 but within the 3,000 gallon limit for the BBF-2.

So in case B) a BBF-2 would cope. Run with a pump giving 1,200 to 1,500 gph (resulting in a turnover of at least once every two hours in this typically stocked pond). A 30 watt UV should be adequate.

C) A 2,400 gallon pond quite heavily stocked with koi; the maximum feed rate in mid-summer is 500 grams of food in any one day.
- Look at the table under 'Max.Feed Rate per day'. This falls within the 650 gram limit for the BBF-3.
- The pond is more than lightly stocked, so look in the 'Standard Stock' column for Maximum Pond Volume. The gallonage of 2,400 is within the 5,000 gallon limit for the BBF-3.

So in case C) a BBF-3 would cope. Run with a pump giving 1,200 to 2,500 gph (resulting in a turnover of once every one to two hours for this quite heavily stocked pond). A 55 watt UV should be more than adequate.

From these scenarios it can be seen that a BBF-1, BBF-2, or BBF-3 may be required for this 2,400 gallon pond in these three different cases. It depends entirely on the level of stock and the feeding rate. If stocks are likely to increase in future, it obviously makes sense to fit the larger model straight away.

If the inlet to the BubbleBead filter is below the surface level of the pond beside it, the filter may not function correctly without accessories.
- If possible, raise the filter so that the inlet is above the pond surface level
- If the filter has to be used in the lower site, this can be done by fitting an accessory valve.
See the section on the Low-Siting Valve Assembly.

Yes. It is possible to fit the filter some distance from the pond. You may need to use a more powerful pump and it is important to use large bore pipework. Make sure that the filter has access to a nearby drain. Leave space around the filter for maintenance access. Mounting in a shed hides the filter and reduces chilling of the water in winter.

Pipework from the waste outlet can run a long distance if necessary, as long as the pipe runs slightly downhill and is of a large bore. In lower sites you can drain into a sunken tank and use an automatic sump pump to remove waste water to wherever it can be safely disposed.

No, you cannot bury the filter in soil. You will need access to the inlet pipework from time to time. If a below-ground site is required you should build a chamber that allows access to the filter plumbing. See the other questions on Siting the filters.

Water being pumped into the BubbleBead filter must first be prefiltered to remove larger solids, otherwise the internal screen will block prematurely.

So yes, this is OK if you are powering the filter using a typical pond pump with a strainer that removes particles smaller than 2 mm. Remember to clean the strainer periodically.

But no, if you are using a 'solids-handling' pump (that can pump particles larger than 2 mm). In these cases you will have to fit some form of prefilter to the pump. Options are:
- Gravity-feed to an EstroSieve, which has the added advantages of being easy to clean and aerating the water before your pump directs it to the filter.
- Fit your solids handling pump inside a strainer, e.g. two large, fine-mesh, pond-planting baskets strapped together to create a large strainer.
- Gravity-feed pond water through a vortex or brush chamber first, before pumping this pre-filtered water to the BubbleBead. Clean the vortex or brushes regularly to reduce excess growth of blanketweed in the pond.

Most appropriately sized pumps can be used. See our Sizing Table.
- The head and flow rate of the pump should be within the range recommended.
- Solids handling pumps should only be used with an additional form of straining.
- Very high pressure pumps are not necessary or desirable (they are often less economical to run). If the maximum pressure exceeds the table ratings, a pressure-relief bypass must be fitted.
- Surface pumps should be installed so that the pump remains primed at all times, e.g. sited lower than the pool surface and not used with additional footvalves.
- The pump is essential for the welfare of your fish, use a reliable model and have secondary facilities ready (e.g. spare pump; separate airpump) should your pump fail.

The most common cause for this is 'under-pressure' within the filter. You can check if this is the case by placing a temporary restriction on the filter outlet where it returns to the pond. If, after a few minutes, the dripping appears to have stopped - it shows that under-pressure is the cause.

Under-pressure within the filter can occur when the outlet back to the pond is
relatively low in relation to the filter inlet. In these cases the water can almost siphon back into the pond from the filter. This reduces the pressure in the filter tank. (See also the User's Guide, page 37 item 2).

If there is low pressure in the filter tank...
- There will be less pressure to shut the hydraulic membrane.
- There will be a tendency for the air inlet to be pulled open, the air inlet may dribble and air may be drawn into the filter whilst running (this disturbs the beads and can also cloud the water).

This low pressure, due to a low filter return, will be more of a problem....
- When the filter is new and the beads are especially clean.
- On units without integral UVs (which create slight backpressure).
- Where the outlet pipe from the top of the filter provides little or no restriction to the
flow.

To solve this problem:
- Raise the end of the pipe where water returns to the pond so that it is higher than the filter inlet, and/or...
- Place an adjustable valve or a permanent small restriction in the return pipework to increase the pressure in the filter. Often only a slight increase in backpressure is necessary.

If we haven't answered your question here, and you can't find an answer in the User's Guide, please use the 'contact us' form. For troubleshooting it is very helpful if you can give us background information on your filter,

e.g.
The filter model being used
The pump make and flow rate
The sizes and lengths of pipe being used
Ancillary equipment being used with the filter e.g. Pump Strainer / UV unit / Low-Site Valve
The height of the filter inlet in relation to the pool water level
The height of the return feed to the pond
The height of the end of the waste outlet pipe
The frequency of cleaning
The fish stocks/feeding rate
How long the filter has been running
Which dealer you purchased the filter from